(Won't you let me take you on a sea cruise?)
What a ride!
Packing |
Bare poles, no sails yet |
My boy drove me up to the ship, Pride of Baltimore II, at its maintenance berth in an industrial section of Baltimore Harbor, on Wednesday night, arriving just as it was getting dark. There was a gang plank, a lovely amenity rarely used, which helped get the carry-on-sized soft backpack and the under-seat-sized tote aboard easily. I was able to give my boy the nickel tour, but I was sad to see the boat was in considerable disarray, not yet ready for sea. That evening, I met my fellow guest crew, and we learned there would be commissioning chores for a couple of days, and we wouldn't actually set sail until Saturday. Most of my trips aboard the Pride have not left on time because they schedule more time than needed to get to destination in order to be able to optimize the weather window, so I wasn't too surprised. I considered taking a trip back home, but I decided to hang out and help with the boatkeeping chores.
Things were all ahoo, SO MUCH to do! |
The weather was seasonal for Baltimore in March, in the 50s or low 60s, and sunny (which makes a great difference!) Besides the regular crew that would be going with us, there were extra people from a rigging company, one that specializes in tall ships and older technologies. The Pride is a replica of an 1812 Baltimore-built privateer named the Chasseur, and she maintains a balance between authenticity, especially above deck in the sails and rigging, and modern safety and efficiency, especially below decks with two diesel engines, watertight compartments, and even a water-maker on board. Every year heavy maintenance is performed, rotating through various components. This year, they had completely disassembled the rigging that holds the masts and sails upright, so there was more to do than usual to get ready to go to sea. As a one-of-a-kind vessel, there were photographs and diagrams to consult, but also the memory of the senior Captain, who has been with the ship from the beginning. The majority of the crew were new to the ship, though not to tall ships - the Pride only hires experienced sailors. She is not a sail training ship (nor a passenger ship) but instead more of a "finishing school" for tall ship sailors. But because this was the beginning of the season, there was a lot of explaining and discussion going on. That was helpful to me, the novice.
Someone caught us backing out from the dock I got this from Facebook |
New crew rehearsing raising the staysail |
By Saturday, we had, as the Captain said, run out of excuses and were ready to leave. It was crisp and cold as we set off and motored out the Patapsco River and into the Chesapeake Bay. Sails went up - a conservative amount of sail area only, as winds were forecast to be somewhat unfavorable in direction and quite strong. We motor-sailed the 150 miles out of Chesapeake Bay. It stayed sunny, which helped enormously. We split into watches after the basic sail configuration was set, and I was able to go below.
Everyone was assigned to a five-person A, B, or C watch, except the Captain and the cook. I had the dreaded A watch! We were assigned to be on duty from 12-4 twice a day, am and pm. I had never had this watch before, and I knew it would be the most disruptive to my circadian rhythms, as I am definitely NOT a night owl. From 4-8 twice a day we were "off" which meant we'd only be called if the ship required extreme handling. But since breakfast was at 7:30 am and supper at 7:30 pm, that really only gave us three hours off-watch for dedicated sleeping. From 8-12 twice a day we were "stand-by", which meant we had to be ready to be on deck with a 5 minute call - ie, dressed for duty except for boots and raingear. We could sleep, as long as we were prepared to leap into action.
Looking like the Michelin Man! |
Max layers, red nose! |
So it was VERY cold and extremely arduous for the first several days. It was also exhilarating! The main cabin held the galley, with the cold-weather diesel stove running 24 hours a day. It kept the salon up to the high 50s, even as the outside temperatures dipped down into the 30s (with significant windchill). My cabin was off the main salon, and so benefited from the stove. I had packed a lot of warm clothes, and I wore them all - nearly all at once! Here are my max layers: minimalist sports bra and panties; medium-weight tight long johns covered by medium-weight fleece pants covered by rain pants; short-sleeve light-weight merino wool tshirt covered by medium-weight long-sleeved merino wool base layer covered by long-sleeved polyester thermal top covered by light-weight pullover fleece covered by heavy-weight fleece hoody covered by down puffy jacket covered by lightweight rain jacket. Also thick wool socks and sea boots. And a merino wool neck buff and merino wool watch cap, sometimes with two hoods up! And of course, gloves.
Typical angle of heel, but also bouncy! |
My cabin. Lower bunk w/ my stuff |
Off watch, at first, I hung out mostly horizontally in my cabin, either dozing or listening to books or podcasts I had downloaded. Many people were getting sick, and I couldn't read below (and it was too cold to sit on deck). I didn't want to take the seasickness meds because even the non-drowsy makes me drowsy. So I burned through three books in my ears. We were given sheets and two heavy wool blankets, but I stayed in my base layers for several days in a row. Retiring to my bunk in the middle of the night one night, I shivered in bed, deep rolling shivers I couldn't control. After some time, I would go to sleep, and wake up a couple of hours later all toasty and cozy in my bunk. Sadly, by then I usually had to get up to pee! For several days we were heeled over in such a way I had to use my clothes to barricade me and keep me from rolling out, but it did make it easier to get out.
Speeding south as the sun comes out! We are off Daytona Beach here, but many miles out to sea and it was still COLD! |
Really, it was fun! And all the time, we were speeding along due south under pure sail - we knew it was going to get warm eventually.