Tuesday, December 3, 2019

Walk Towards the Light

"Walk towards the light" is a design principle used by an architect who published a series of books I gobbled up over the past few years: Sarah Susanka, with the Not So Big House series. She has a series of principles and practical suggestions, many of which I've incorporated into my own small house. The "walk towards the light" idea is that people are naturally drawn towards the light, so use that concept in placing windows, hallways, lighting, and lighted art works, to make it comfortable and natural to move around your home. One specific example is my newly renovated basement - I had one additional window excavated to a large size in the big, main room down there, not required for "legal bedroom exit" status, but because it's at the foot of the stairway and faces west. In the afternoon, light streams in from outside, and it draws you down the stairs to the otherwise underground space.

Light is very important to me. I'm convinced the gloom of my middle school years, spent in Ann Arbor and England, was influenced by the gloom over the winters. By contrast, the South Shore of Long Island, heavily influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, is one of the sunniest places in the country during the winter months. Moving back there for my high school years was a life saver. Back to Ann Arbor for college and grad school, we once went 45 days without enough sun to cast a shadow. I remember hunkering down into vegetative status in the winters. Chicago, on the west side of the Great Lakes, was significantly less gloomy in winter than Michigan. But I'm convinced I never would have gotten the gumption to apply for the job in DC if we hadn't had a glorious, stationary, high-pressure system sitting over Chicago for four weeks at just exactly the right time. It was frigid - during that time it never climbed above 5 degrees! But it was light, all day, every (short) day, and I soaked it up, through windows at work and bundling up to go cross-country skiing on weekends.

When I moved to DC, my first office at my new job was an interior one, with no glimpse of the outside. I read a book on Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) and I was afraid of what the dark would do to me. I had started The Big Weight-loss, and key to that was nordic tracking for a time every single morning. I bought a specialty florescent sunlight lamp on a mounting pole that allowed it to shine in my face as I exercised. This is reckoned to be the absolute best method for use of a lamp to ward off SAD - in your face, first thing upon rising, while exercising. No doubt the energy from the light helped in the weight-loss.

I bought my current house primarily for its windows, secondarily for its lot and the gardening possibilities. (Of course, location came first!) Built in 1950 when tract housing was shooting up all over the U.S., it has several detectable Prairie School influences (in the pitch of the roof and overhangs) and mid-Century modern as well (in the large combination living/dining room, and several modernist touches in materials and trim), rescuing it from the dark, chopped up standards at the time. Shaped like an "L", with the two bedrooms on the base of the "L" and the public rooms along the upright, it's oriented close to north-south, with the bedrooms being the north wing. Every room has big windows, and from almost every spot in the house you can see outdoors on at least two different sides (if doors and blinds are open). But as I've recently spent more days in the house at all hours, I've noticed subleties in the light patterns in these most dark days of the year.

Clearly, the axis of the house is skewed from true north/south, so that east-facing windows get less morning light than west-facing windows get in the afternoon. I move consciously through the house, following the light. I have a "morning chair" in my office with east windows. I usually get up before full light, so the chair has a nice reading spotlight. I sit with my ipad and coffee, catching up on blogs, social media, and the news. The sun is rising behind me - if I turn I can watch it, but as I sit I can see rays in the room, and through to the next room to watch the sun cast light on the trees outside on the west side. I recently also bought a small sunlight lamp, because I found grey days seemed to sap my energy even with consciously trying to get outdoors more. It's a small thing, relatively inexpensive, and I set it up right next to my face as I read, for 15-20 minutes. Maybe it helps - so hard to tell.
My sunny kitchen

By the time it's full light, the kitchen with east and south windows is lovely. That's when I clean up from the night before (yes I go to bed with the dishes undone) and plan the day's activities and meals. Somewhere in there I go to the basement where my workout room gets some natural light from the north, but is very very well lit.

I generally eat breakfast and hang out in my sunroom if I'm home and reading or writing for the morning. This room, known also as the TV room and the dog's room, started life as a screen porch and then was winterized. It has giant windows on the east, south, and west! This makes it a poor TV room in the summer when glare affects the screen most of the time, but it is a lovely place to spend a portion of my day these days. (It's very doggy, and a deep cleaning of furniture and new floor coverings will happen between dogs, whenever that is. For the time being, it works for me and my four-legged guy better than for guests.)
The sunroom in the afternoon.

By the early afternoon, my big room is getting the light. This is where I'll finish out my day. I use my dining room table as working desk when I plunge into finances and paperwork. I flop on the living room couch with books or the ipad. My bedroom faces west and north, and any cleaning, organizing, or decorating projects in there are likely to be kicked off in the late afternoon during its brief time of streaming light.

During these dark days, I also pay attention to the spectrum and intensity of my interior lighting. In both my bedroom and my living room I have intense daylight spectrum lightbulbs I use in the daytime, but I try to avoid them in the evening. My bedside reading light is specifically a red-spectrum evening light, and I invested in a fancy alarm clock that gradually runs through the spectrum from red to blue light as the way to wake up. (I'm not using the alarm clock most days these days. Don't hate me for being retired.)

This pattern of moving around the house with the sun actually started unconsciously. Now that I've noticed it, I've decided to adopt it as a default routine. I'm like a photophillic phototropic plant. I like the light and I follow it!

Monday, November 25, 2019

Times Just Past

I've had a bit of a week.

Last week was the big final push to get out of my mother's apartment. I went ahead and hired a service after I found myself driving 20 miles to drop off a single bag of yarn to charity knitters. I was making myself crazy doing this stuff, and it could have gone on for months more. And every time I went to the apartment, more stuff went into my car to take home.

So Monday I met the project manager from the company I hired. "This is really nice stuff!", she said. "But there's a lot of it!" Tuesday I met the donation coordinator from the thrift shop onsite at my mother's community. We tagged what they would take. "This is really nice stuff!", she said. "But there's a lot of it, so we're only taking the best!". Thursday, the packers and organizers came. "This is really nice stuff!", they said. (You know the rest.) They sorted into several piles: Donate onsite. Donate at Habitat for Humanity. Donate clothes and soft goods to Lion's Club. Take to storage unit. Ship to Georgia.  TRASH!  (I have no doubt many things were trashed that could have found a use, but I was done and just couldn't deal.) It took the packers all day, from 9 to 5. I was there off and on, and they found several things I hadn't realized were there - all of which ended up back at my house. Friday the movers came. They didn't comment on the niceness of the stuff, but clearly were taken aback at the volume. It took them past noon to load the truck, layered from front to back, to the several different destinations. Again, I was around off and on - no point in hovering every moment, but things came up. When they moved the big furniture, for example, some things were discovered. Again, most of that stuff ended up at my house.  Around 3 pm on Friday, I met the truck at the storage unit where it took all of about 15 minutes to put that stuff away. Then I went home, with a stop at the grocery store to buy ice cream which I used (as my friend put it) to toast the end of a phase.

Things have emotions tied to them, as we know. So this whole week was fraught. But in addition to the Big Push, I also:

  • Bought a car.
  • Had a day where I retreated to my chair, and had the fewest steps of any day since my knee operation a year ago.
  • Had a birthday party for my brother-in-law, where I cooked my heart out, and only two people showed up.
  • Had what may be the first of many welcome crucial conversations with one of the kids about their mother.
  • Had my (old) car break down at my mother's campus, with a big audible THUMP followed by a grinding noise. It was three hours for AAA to come tow me to the dealer, where I don't have it back yet. This was the first car tow I've had in 20 years. (I have used the nautical equivalent of AAA several times in the interim!)
  • Had a major tranche of money of the inheritance go awry. It's not lost, just not distributed to the correct family members, due to very very complicated circumstances. I may have gotten it corrected, but I'm learning lots about how the American financial system works.
  • Worked out once, for a paltry 15 minutes.
  • Ate carbs throughout the day, every day.
  • Lost my keys for the first time in years, including the fob for my new car and all the keys to the storage unit. They turned up, 24 hours later, as keys tend to do, but I never misplace my keys. It was traumatic - I spent the whole day looking, and tossed and turned all night with new places to look the next morning.
  • Woke up with a sore throat and painful swallowing.
  • Had a proliferation of aches and pains through the whole body, turning me back into the ancient version of the Red Lady. This is not new things actually structurally wrong with me, but my body reacting to the stress.
I'm SO done with last week, and ready to move on! But I'm also overcome with the sense of excess stuff my mother had - maybe 40 t-shirts? - and fired up to pare down my own possessions. She also had stuff from hobbies past and future aspirational projects - I know I have a bunch of that and I need to take a hard eye at those neatly stowed boxes of equipment and supplies. So some of this is good and it will push me in a good direction.

I got up this morning and spent a nice half hour working out. It's sunny, and hopefully I'll get back to a better routine. The sore throat and aches and pains are still here, but I'm feeling better and the energy level is high.

Wednesday, November 13, 2019

Swedish Death Cleaning (NOT)

Swedish death cleaning is, of course, the practice of old people in Sweden to get rid of all their stuff to make life easier for their heirs. I'm so lucky my mother downsized from her house to a two bedroom apartment, but she managed to cram a LOT of stuff into this apartment. And, it was a lot of terrific stuff.

I finally hired someone to finish this off. But I'm wimping out on getting rid of stuff. More and more stuff is going into storage, deferring the hardest decisions. But in the meantime, I'm making space and incorporating more of my mother's stuff into my own house. Call it Norwegian Death Decorating.

I love this!
I'm committed to less stuff overall. (I'm reading both The Minimalist Home and Outer Order, Inner Calm as I do this.) I don't want to end up crowded and cluttered. So I'm getting rid of some of my stuff as I'm appropriating things from my mother's place. There is, for example, a small chest I've just put at my front door. I moved one tall bookshelf down to the basement (which was in the plan) and I'm surplussing entirely a smaller bookcase.

I'm also re-thinking my "no seasonal decorations" stance. There are lots of smaller, cool, things my mother had that I want to keep. They make me smile. But I don't want the overwhelming clutter they bring. So I'm trying to develop a system where I can have changing displays, maybe three different ones? Not counting Christmas, which I love to pieces. But I don't need it all - just a few things to switch it up.

I'm looking forward to getting out of the apartment and moving forward.

Friday, November 8, 2019

Report Card

I updated the report card I did a couple of months ago. I was still too busy when September ended, so this adds both September and October. I added a couple of fields, and was tempted to add even more. I have plans to collect and report more data, but I decided to post this as is, and not wait.

As before, I've shrunk down the size of this to show all the months at once. Darker color is better, so if no numbers show, you still get an idea of "good" versus "bad".

First comes activity. Both September and October were mixed, with news of my mother's death coming on September 11, and her memorial service on October 12. Between the two, all bets were off. So most of my September activity is early, and most of my October activity was at the end. I also took a small cruise in October, and the two days on the small ship had very few steps. I'm not feeling the bike riding, and I'm not likely to start up again now until spring. But I do aspire to ride more.

Conclusion: August was the big month for activity, but it didn't go entirely to hell when I was derailed from my emerging routine. The Days >2,000 cal measures busy days, and I had plenty of busy days. The Days < 5,000 steps measures very inactive days, and those were up in September but stayed low in October.



Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Avg Calories Exp #### #### #### #### #### #### #### #### #### ####

Days >2,000 cal 6 7 7 10 16 14 12 13 10 12

Avg Daily Steps #### #### #### #### #### #### #### #### #### ####

Days < 5,000 steps 5 4 5 3 1 2 4 3 4 1

Miles Biked     -       -       -       -       -       -        5      9     -       -  

Miles Walked    26    16      8    17    15    38    28    48    15    12

Miles Run     -       -        6      3      5    11      6      1    11     -  


Next is weight. I wrote about this in the previous post. Not a pretty picture. But it's data. Tracking is what I can do, what's under my control. It had an impact in August, and I've started up again, with more advance planning (pre-tracking) as opposed to simply recording the sad facts afterwards.



Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
End Weight (week)  159  160  161  163  163  163  164  164  163  166

Days Food Tracked     -      10     -       -       -       -       -      16     -       -  


The next group is kind of a report on my head. Meditation, migraines, and sleep. (I added migraines and sleep since last report.) Lots of meditation may reflect more feeling bad at the time, but I still choose to code it as more is better. But October was a terrible month for migraines. I have an app to track the migraines and try to make correlations for triggers, reliefs, and preventatives. I think I chose not to use the app at the beginning of the year, when I was all in on trying to prevent the migraine through mindwork - meditation, self-talk, expressive writing, guided visualizations. I think it worked pretty well, and part of my mindset at the time was that tracking put too much focus on migraines, granted them too much importance, so I shouldn't track. But I've had such severe heads that I'm back to tracking as well as trying to prevent through those mindwork methods. I record the actual hours of head pain, but typically the impact is for longer - a very low activity day with huge carb urges precedes the headache, and typically there is an incredible lassitude for a day or so when it's passed - no gumption, no energy, a strong need for sleep. So a big impact overall.



Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
# Min Meditate 439 235 178 81 143 295 215 333 229 223

# Times Meditate 42 22 20 11 15 23 21 29 21 26

Migraine Hours     -       -       -       -      20    24    11    27    13    44

Sleep Hours   7.1   7.3   7.3   6.8   7.0   7.3   7.0   7.4   7.2   7.2


Here's the money report. Spending was off the charts overall and for food, but gas stays reasonable without my daily commute. There is more to say on money thoughts, but that's planning, and this is reporting.



Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Total Spend #### #### #### #### #### #### #### #### #### ####

Food Spend #### #### #### #### #### #### #### #### #### ####

Gas Spend  $72  $59 ####  $87  $83  $84  $29  $26  $53  $50


This final group is fun stuff, and it didn't all go away in the face of adversity. I slowed down on reading - I like to think it's because I was more active. But I blogged (both here and in the garden blog), got into the city (thanks, blogger's weekend!) and did spend some time on the boat. That is nearly done for the season, though I will record trips to the marina this winter. That's why it's not labelled "sailing" - it's days with the boat, whether doing chores or sailing.



Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
# Books Read 8 7 4 1 0 12 11 9 3 4

# Blog Posts 6 8 7 6 3 6 8 7 10 7

# Trips downtown -- -- -- -- -- 1 5 2 1 4

# Days Boat -- -- -- 1 2 3 2 7 3 1


So if you step back and squint, August still wins overall, but I didn't allow everything to go down the drain in the face of adversity. Except weight, and we'll stop talking about that for a while.

Wednesday, November 6, 2019

AUUUGGGHHH!!!

I had a big startle when I stepped on the scale this morning. I felt basically ok about yesterday's eating, but then I saw a number on the scale this morning higher than any recent numbers. A number I haven't seen since my Second Big Loss, in the early days of this blog. I know, very strongly, that one day's number means absolutely nothing. However, my numbers have been high overall. I can't ignore the data. And I'm not immune to the impact of today's number.

So am I lying to myself about what I've been eating? Is it worse for me than I think? I have a pretty high opinion of my nutrition knowledge. But either I'm eating things that I mentally discount and ignore (eg, the cookies last night) or else I am wrong on the nature of the food I'm planning and deliberately choosing to eat. (I am trying hard to not include the possibility that suddenly my thyroid has gone haywire and so my physiology is to blame. Physiology is almost never the reason for a weight gain, and my annual checkups have never hinted at a thyroid problem before.) I woke up thirsty this morning and had several tumblers of water before stepping on the scale. But today's high number is not that different from the numbers I've seen every day. So it's real data.

I have been planning to focus on activity, on getting strong, and let eating go where it will. But it's clear to me right now that may not be the best strategy for me now. I do actually care about how I look. The number on the scale is related to how I look. I'm having some success at keeping my activity level up, and it feels good to do it. I am just at the tipping point of the virtuous spiral where expending effort to work out is truly making me stronger and giving me more energy to do more stuff. This has to stay my main focus. It is in my control, much more than what I weigh.
But what I eat is also in my control. Sometimes I feel powerless over what I eat, but I'm not. Yes, certain foods will stimulate my appetite to make it harder to resist more food (I'm looking at you, sugar demon). And yes, fatigue, and pain, and especially migraines make it even harder. But, I am a free agent, something of a badass, and I have a lot of experience and a lot of tools to figure out how to take back control.

The only way to clearly answer the question (in what way am I eating many more calories than I think I am) is to track assiduously. I hate tracking. I've tried several automated ways to track and all of them are work. But if I care about this, I will do some work.


Whatever I've been doing isn't leading to the results I want. I'm going to spend some effort thinking about how to have better control of what I am eating.

Wednesday, October 30, 2019

TV Recommendation

Just a quick note to share what I'm binging on these days. LOVE this show. It's a cross between the West Wing and The Americans. It's got sincere civil servants trying to do good in the world, and also trying to get into each other's pants. Like the West Wing, but with more strong women. It's got spies, conspiracies, and arguments between parents and adolescents, like The Americans. Good character development. Since it's a mainstream network show, it has 5 seasons with 20+ episodes! And it ends this year (still showing new shows right now) with a 10 episode final season. Something to keep me going for a while!

I can't believe TLo never commented on Tia Leoni's style of power suiting for her role as Secretary of State. In the first season, I was struck how she was always in trouser suits, with so much more style than Hilary ever had. Now, in season 2, skirts are making an appearance. The chemistry between the Secretary and her spouse reflects the real life relationship between Leoni and Tim Daly.

It is necessarily very concerned with foreign relations, which have changed enormously since 2014. But like the West Wing, it was a simpler time. Sigh.

Monday, October 28, 2019

Stuff

I want to have less stuff. I spent a few years cleaning out my basement before the renovation, and finally had to have help in the final clearing.  I like a clean, uncluttered look. I don't rotate holiday decorations, as a general rule, and some years barely even dressed the house for Christmas. I rarely entertain, so my good dishes get used for the family at Christmas, and hardly ever any other time.

So now I'm emptying my mother's apartment. Everywhere I look are wonderful things, and I'm struggling with not wanting to let them go. I hired an appraiser, and she will provide some information on actual monetary value. But I can't imagine myself going the ebay route to maximize value. It's more wanting to get use out of things. And also, unexpectedly, finding myself sentimental over the kind of things that have no apparent use and need dusting.  

There is a lot of crap, and that is not a problem. My mother would save all the free address stickers from all of the many many charities that each received $10 annually from her.  One full size brown grocery bag full of labels, into recycling. Flashlights that stopped working years ago, with batteries oozing acid. Maybe a dozen of those?  Opened rolls of wrapping paper, crinkled and dusty from poor storage. VCR tapes of movies she taped off the TV, with handwritten labels. Audio cassette tapes of books bought from library sales. Gone, gone, and gone.

There are sturdy, useful things, and that is a minor problem - what if I need one of these some day? A useful rule of thumb on that is, if it could be replaced for less than $25, and you don't need it now, get rid of it. Three corkscrews, two manual can openers and one electric one fall into this category. But there are other things: Four old boom boxes. Four Tivoli model one radios - I turned both my mother and her friend Ruthanne onto those. My mother kept Ruthanne's radios when she cleared out her apartment after Ruthanne died, and I suspect a lot of other stuff such as flashlights. I have four Tivoli radios myself already at home - how many more can my house hold? Once the answer would have been all of them - because I almost always have the radio going in my house - but now I tend to say, "Computer! Play NPR!" and it happens throughout the house at once. Piles of fabric, and curtains. Some of these things I will actually use, and now. At my house after my mother's memorial service, ice water was poured from "the Danish pitcher" - that was on my mother's kitchen counter since I can remember. But that is the exception, not the rule.


There are a few, small, valuable items and those are also a minor problem. There is no temptation to keep these things, but I can't just toss them. I got a great (and trustworthy) recommendation for an old-coin place - that'll be easy enough. Not sure about old jewelry. My mother's house was robbed - twice - in the 1980s, and so there isn't much jewelry left. But there is some, not appealing to me or the women in the family, but with small diamonds, and I'll have to figure this out. (Keep to be reset in the future as engagement rings? That's where my sister's and sister-in-law's rings come from.) Silver, pewter, brass items, of no utility but some beauty? My brother is taking the Wedgwood china - being Southern, they entertain and like to set a gracious table. But we agreed that if the kids want it in the future, they get it.

It's well understood that "brown furniture" is not generally wanted by today's youth. The appraiser told me it doesn't matter if it's old or not, it has little value despite its utility. My brother and I have houses filled with furniture. The kids aren't ready yet, though I was surprised they didn't reject the stuff out of hand. I keep eyeing what's here, because it's so good. No veneers here. My mother bought stuff at farm auctions in the midwest in the 1950s and 1960s and refinished it herself. This fairly simple style suits what is already in my house. Several small cherry tables, good as card tables, or in a kitchen? My brother and I will take the two smallest chests. All the new stuff, and one huge desk/china cabinet, have to go. But I keep re-arranging my house in my mind, getting rid of stuff, trying to see where I could fit it in. I'm pretty sure I'll rent a storage unit and it'll go in there for a defined time. (Did this get suggested at the recent blogger's bash? I know it wasn't my idea.) But anything I wouldn't consider giving house room to will get donated, if donation centers will take them.

There was a lot of paper, including photos. As of today, I have been through everything, and I now have 18 document boxes to store. Roughly a third are financial records, that can be pitched in few years without another need to review. I believe there is more there than I needed to keep, but too bad. There are bunches of boxes of photos and photo albums, for the storage unit. There are several boxes I labelled "personal", to be gone through more slowly. Yesterday, I found a collection of letters in their envelopes tied by a ribbon. I remembered this - when I was about ten years old my mother showed me the same collection and said they were the love letters my dad wrote her before they were married. (My dad? That silent guy?) There are other things, like marriage certificates. At any rate, I erred on the side of keeping things, because once things are gone they are gone forever. At a minimum, I want to read through things myself. Maybe there is a scanning or archiving project in the future, but for now it's simple preservation for later review.

Where I'm having the hardest problem is with unexpected sentimentality. My mother's clothes. I don't need them, I don't even really like much of them, but I find myself reluctant to let some of them go. The only things that may fit are nice sweaters and jackets, and I don't think I need any of those. I've stopped working, and I don't have much occasion to dress above a hoody. I like hoodies. I've been dressing like a 12-year-old boy since I was a 12-year-old girl, and I don't see stopping now. 

And small things. That have no use and require dusting. Many cool, cute, small things. Everywhere I look, there they are. My brother and sister-in-law, and the kids, have been through and picked out things and some have made their way already to my house. I won't do the ebay thing, and I don't want to store things and start rotating them. I am reluctant to even store them "temporarily" in the storage unit I'm planning to have. I guess I'll leave this to last. Suggestions welcome.

At some point, I'll hire help, but I haven't done it yet. My sister-in-law searched all the clothing drawers and found things squirreled away, valuable things and sentimental papers. So now I'm confident the clothing drawers can be dealt with by someone else. I filled my car with paper to be recycled and took it to the dump myself yesterday. I can get a trash container delivered up here and make one pass to get rid of the bigger crap. I can hire someone to pack and ship things to my brother. I can hire them to pack the storage unit with the furniture and boxes we are keeping. I can use them for donations, as well, but I feel like they won't truly use due diligence. Sigh. I'll keep plugging away.

Friday, October 25, 2019

Adventure Travel

The Pride of Baltimore II,
under full canvas 10/23/2019
Since retiring, I'm way too much of a homebody. I need to get moving. Because I don't have an automatic vacation travel companion in the form of a spouse, I am inclined to sign up for organized trips. I'm fine with just going on my own - for a couple of days. After that, my introverted self is weary of the huge effort it takes to engage alone with strangers in a strange environment. A few weeks ago I lined up a few trips, and the first one is just over and I'm nearly recovered. And it was very nearly perfect!

I have sailed on the Pride of Baltimore II before, almost exactly five years ago. I wrote about it, too, here. That trip I did with my sailing partner. This one I did alone. But it certainly helped my confidence to have experience, so some idea of what to expect on board. The Pride II is an all-wood re-creation of a privateer that was hugely successful against British shipping in the war of 1812. It is widely acknowledged as one of the prettiest sailing vessels, and fastest, and most maneuverable, ever built.

Last week was the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner race, and this saw Pride II and a couple of dozen other schooners, all different shapes and sizes and vintages, whiz down the bay from Annapolis to Norfolk. The Pride II won, of course. They had a couple of days planned layover in Norfolk, and then new crew, including me, were scheduled to board for the return trip to Baltimore Sunday night.

I took a pre-dawn Uber on Saturday to catch the train down to Norfolk, arriving mid-day in the port town. The train was fine, relatively comfortable, for what was a five hour trip. I mostly listened to a book through headphones, got up to walk the length of the quiet car once an hour, and ate the food I'd brought along. Amtrak dropped me off by the minor league ball park in Norfolk, and I hefted my backpack and duffle and trudged up to my hotel. It was a beautiful day in Norfolk, sunny and in the 70's. I dropped off my bags, and explored the small downtown. Walking around is my favorite thing, and so I followed the waterfront, scouted out where Pride II was moored, and saw what there was to see. I stopped at a small restaurant and ate a lamb kebab and salad outside, as much to rest my feet as to eat. More walking, then into the big hotel to check out the rooftop bar I had spotted earlier. Impossible to sit in the packed outside, but with the wall open to the outdoors, the bar was very pleasant. I had a beer, chatted with the bartender, and looked at the people. My phone was out for a while, but I was very conscious of not wanting to be in my own bubble, but to push myself to be out in the world.

Very tired,  I went back to the hotel, sat down for a while, planning what the next day would be like. Done with being out in the world, I ordered on-line for pickup from a nearby barbecue restaurant just after dark. Safely back in my comfy room, I ate a lovely hot sandwich and resumed watching a series on Netflix I had downloaded to the ipad the night before.

Sunday dawned with a huge rainstorm. I couldn't board the Pride II until 7 pm, so I needed to amuse myself all day. I had found on Tripadvisor the "best" place for breakfast, just a couple blocks from the hotel, and was there by 8 am (I woke with no alarm) and joined the Norfolk fire department there for what was indeed a great full breakfast. When I was done eating, it was still pouring, but it was quite warm, so I took the long way back to the hotel. The rain had been forecast, and not much was open on Sunday morning, so my game plan I made was to hang in the hotel room as late as possible - I negotiated a 2 pm checkout. That gave me a chance to take a long hot shower, dry my clothes wet from breakfast (with the hair dryer!) and read some more. Just before 2 I dropped my bags at the front desk and headed out for more Norfolk touring.

It was still raining, so I headed to the nautical museum. It was ok, not great, but it was dry and had plenty of places to sit down. By the time I left just before its closing, it had mostly stopped raining. I went back to the rooftop bar, (now all closed up from the weather) and had a beer and some fish tacos for dinner. The timing was about perfect afterwards for picking up my bags from my hotel and heading to my ship.
The dock in Norfolk

The six "guest crew", including me, all boarded about the same time. We had a basic orientation, and learned that in the morning the ship would be doing an educational sail with school kids, and we wouldn't head north until later. Timing was still up in the air due to weather considerations. After hanging out in the ship's saloon for a while, I bundled myself into my bunk and fell asleep early.

As advertised, the next morning we took on a couple dozen eighth graders and some teachers and did a little turn around the harbor. The crew had set up four different "stations" on the boat and groups of the kids moved between them. There were lessons on the importance of maritime transportation in the early development of the country, some of the dynamics of why the war of 1812 was fought, a chance to practice loading and firing the cannon, and the physics of sailing - how could we move towards the wind?  Guess which education station was the most popular? (Duh, the cannon.)

After lunch we finally had a real introduction to the crew and ship. The captain has, in his words, "been involved with this project for forty years", but the rest of the crew were in their 20s and 30s, except for the cook who was a guy about my age. There were three tall bros with beards and man-buns that I couldn't tell apart, three tattooed and pierced women, and the other guys all had shaved heads. All of the crew had been on other tall ships - the Pride II is considered something special, and has the luxury of picking who they want. Most of the guest crew were close to me in age and with some sailing experience, but my roommate was a young woman who had never been aboard any kind of a sailboat before. She had an enormous enthusiasm for naval history, and had read all of the same historical fiction books I have.
I'm pretty sure the smile never left my face.

Because of weather, we cast off from Norfolk at 3 am. It was all hands to see us off, and we started to raise the sails as soon as we could. Around 5 am some folks went below, but it was my watch until 8 am so I got to see the sun rise while at the wheel, before being dismissed below. A hearty breakfast was followed by a nap. Then all hands back on deck to raise more sails - including some that hadn't been used in a couple of years! The captain had planned things well - the Tuesday weather window he picked had us galloping up the bay at a rapid clip throughout the daylight hours. It was dry, and warm enough to peel down to just a sweatshirt layer.

Some of my work.
As guest crew, we couldn't do that much. There was a lot of pulling on lines, but we always had to have them put in our hands because we certainly couldn't figure out which one when on our own. Also a lot of coiling of lines. This is not to make things look pretty, but so they will run smoothly when needed. The sails are very heavy. There is mechanical advantage with pullies dividing the load, but no powered winches to do the actual pulling. I felt proud that I started to figure out the commands and which line did what, but I never ventured to touch anything without being told.

Moving fast!
Just before dark, we lowered sails (it took a solid two hours of hard work) and we put the ship in order to steam through the rainy and cold night. My watch was again 4 - 8, but "pm" this time, and I got thoroughly soaked but not cold as it got dark. The last hour of the watch was almost entirely standing around in the pitch-dark pouring rain with a nearly total inability to see anything at all. But I wasn't cold, so all was ok.

I was happy to change into dry clothes, eat a satisfying dinner, and retire to my bunk for another sleep before being called at 3 am for docking in Baltimore. Finally, all snug in her berth in the industrial part of the port, I took another quick snooze before breakfast. I caught a ride to the train station with one of the crew, and home via metro and bus. And another nap.

This trip was in some ways a test run for a bigger, more ambitious sailing trip I've signed up for. Next July, I'm going to spend a week on a tall ship in Iceland! I consider myself right now in fairly poor physical condition, and yet I was able to climb up and down the many ladders, twist through companionways, haul on ropes, and sleep in a hard bunk. (None of the guest crew, including me, went aloft this trip. My feet were firmly planted on the solid wood deck the whole time.) I've made notes of what pieces of my gear needs to be replaced (my waterproof jacket is not waterproof anymore, after a mere 15 years) and also what worked well, and what I didn't have that would be handy. Most of all, I want to get to be stronger and have better endurance. I really fell deeply asleep when I had the opportunity, and without that I would have been in even rougher shape. As it was, I felt pretty good, and not seasick at all. This is a great motivator for me to get out there and exercise. Stamina, strength, and flexibility take work, but they are what I need to have a really great time. This was one night in a hotel, and three on board, and I've had two 10-hour sleeps since getting home. I might have slowed way down if the cruise had gone on much longer. I think stamina can be built up, and I need to get more ambitious in working on this.